ClimbingConditions.com

I guided and ascent of Bourgeau Left Hand yesterday, Jan 11th. The approach trails starts at the back of the shipping containers and is good through the trees. Above the evergreens the trail was lost to wind blown snow and we slogged through a couple…

Great day out climbing with fellow guide Pete Thurlow on Pilsner Pillar.-2, light wind, a few flakes under overcast skies back at the road.Climbers have been to the base of the route and been enjoying the mixed lines to the right and behind the Pilla…

Spent the day climbing on the Stanley Headwall (Uniform Queen). 2 significant avalanche observations.1. A large size 3 avalanche blew over the top of Nemesis some time between Jan 3rd and 6th. The debris travelled to the trees covering the summe…

Spent the past 3 days guiding on the Parkway between Mosquito Creek and Bow Summit.   30cm of HST fell on the 4 and 5th with an average temp of -5 and fairly significant winds.  I observed winds slabs in Alpine features and some cornice gr…

Larry Stanier and I went to Field and climbed Super Bok yesterday, deep into the bowels of Mt. Stephen.We went there because the temperatures had dropped significantly, the storm snow was reported to be bonding well, and the avalanche danger had drop…

Linked up Rogans Gully and Cascade today with two guests. Both of these routes have previously avalanched, probably in the last 2 weeks I’m guessing. Rogans is in easier shape than previous years, in fact the little pillar that is usually found mid…

Climbed Blue Angel on wednesday January 4th. Route was in great climbing shape despite the balmy 8c, chinook winds and warm sun at the base at noon. We approached as instructed in Waterfall ice. Description is good and it is just under 400m vertical …

I guided two clients, along with a practicum guide, on This House of Sky in the Ghost on January 4th.   Easy driving conditions with a 4×4 pickup, no issues at the river crossings or elsewhere on the drive in and out.  Not much snow in…

Avalanche Control will is planned for the East end of rundle slide paths on Friday January 6th between 10-11am.  Grassi lakes trail will be closed as well as the Reclaimer trail.  The Junkyards climbing area will remain open.   No ac…

Guided Guinness Gully yesterday, Jan 3. Temperature hovered around -5, low cloud cover, no wind and only a few flakes during the day. We found all pitches plump and fun with well travelled climbing lines. While the ice was wet in places onl…

Guided Louise falls today. Overcast with light snow (S-1) during most of the day, calm and -3 when we returned to the base of the climb.We were the 1st group (3) on the route today. We saw10 climbers in various parties climbing or waiting to cli…

It was snowing steadily at the Weeping Wall today. Approx 7-8cms of wet snow fell between our arrival at 0900 and departure at 230pm. We only used the first 30m of low angle ice on the lower wall. The ice was in good shape but quickly getting covered…

My climbing partner and I enjoyed a quiet day at Marble Canyon today – nobody else there. Tokkum Pole is quite featured for the first 8m or so due to all the traffic of climbers over the holidays. This makes the start challenging to find good pro – b…

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control on the Bourgeau slidepaths on the Sunshine Road tomorrow Jan 4th, 2012.No outdoor activities are permitted in this area tomorrow.Thank you for your cooperation and understanding.Aaron BeardmoreSpecial…

Climbed the Fang and the Fist in the Ghost on saturday the 31st. Good challenging driving for a moderate clearance 4×4 on marked trail to Malamute valley. Lots of water to 30cm deep- brakes still freezing up today. Route is in good shape, first 5 m&#…

Guided the Weeping Wall today. -25 at the parking lot at 10am but the sun hit the wall at 10:15 and warmed everything up fast. Climbed the right hand line for the first pitch and avoided the bolts in the cave because of the brittle hanging daggers ab…

Parks Canada is planning to do avalanche control on Mt Bourgeau tomorrow – Monday, January 2. Please no outdoor activities in this area tomorrow.Photo of avalanche control on Mt Bosworth today

Size 3, occurred on Mt Rundle yesterday, one gully feature east of the professors ice climb.  Photo referred to in the Banff avalanche bulletin at www.avalanche.caLisa PaulsonMountain GuideVisitor Safety SpecialistBanff, Yoho, and Kootenay …

Occurred yeaterdayLisa PaulsonMountain GuideVisitor Safety SpecialistBanff, Yoho, and Kootenay Parks>

I spent a day of instruction on the approach slope, and under the roof, of Louise Falls today, December 30th. The route looks to be in fine shape and good conditions were reported by fellow Mountain Guide who climbed it today. Good ice on the first p…

Parks Canada will be conducting avalanche control Saturday, Dec.31 on:Mt. BosworthMt.FieldMt.StephenNo outdoor activities in these areas, thank you for your cooperation.Stephen HolecziParks Canada Visitor Safety ProgramsBanff/Yoho/Kootenay National P…

I guided an ascent of Snowline today, Dec 29th. There is a lot of ice on the road in, I considered putting on crampons. The route is in good shape and had a line of water reaching to ground. Snowline was growing and it should get bigger. I meant to …

Hi all,I took a drive over the Duffy Lake road today. It was 1 degree at the pass and 3 degrees at the rambles parking. It looked like some ok skiing high above the road but it would be about a 300m elevation gain to get to the goods. There were lot…

I guided an enchainment of SARs on Ice and Five Seven Zero today, December 28th. Both routes are in great shape and nowhere on the ascent did we find enough snow to create an avalanche. We descended via walking the ridgeline south towards Whirlpool P…

Please check the CAC Forecaster Blog for a new post discussing current conditions and providing advice for how to manage the conditions we expect to see over the next week or so.   http://www.avalanche.ca/cac/bulletins/forecaster-blog   &n…